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It would arrive on Christmas Eve containing wheels of Stilton, a whole foie gras en croute and other exotic treats.

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It involves a large cake, usually a ginger cake or honey and cream sponge; a fruit cake would clash with the following day’s Christmas cake There was room for some gentle subterfuge on my part, at least when it came to my favourite Royal, Princess Diana.The Queen has a gin and Dubonnet, while Prince Philip has beer.Everyone else will sip a glass of Veuve Clicquot (except teetotal Prince Andrew) and nibble on nuts.Meghan and the Royal Family will take their places – although seats are unassigned, even for the Queen – at 1pm sharp.

The table features elaborately folded starched white napkins, a silver candelabra with lit candles, wine decanters and red and gold crackers at each setting For 15 years I was personal chef to Her Majesty and, later, Princess Diana until her death in 1997, catering to the Royals over many Christmases and New Years.

The children eat separately in the nursery at 12.30pm.